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	<title>Comments on: Low Air Flow in Heat Pump Systems</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.lowairflow.com/?feed=rss2&#038;p=16" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16</link>
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		<title>By: Ed</title>
		<link>http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16&#038;cpage=1#comment-461</link>
		<dc:creator>Ed</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Apr 2010 18:39:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16#comment-461</guid>
		<description>Patty,

It is very important that accurate airflow measurements be taken. The correct airflow is required in order for all components of the system not only operate at their best ( 15 SEER ) effiency, but also safely. Your system documents should give you the minimum required airflow for that system. Pressure readings should be taken to see what they are including the return air with the clean filter in place. Keep in mind, that as the filter gets dirty, the airflow will be reduced accordingly. Newly available high effiency filters must be sized properly, because they have a very large pressure drop even when clean. If the measurements show that the minumum required airflow cannot be attained, modifications to the duct system and/or return air filter system will be required. Please keep us posted, and feel free to contact us if you&#039;d like us to review your service company&#039;s results.

  Ed</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Patty,</p>
<p>It is very important that accurate airflow measurements be taken. The correct airflow is required in order for all components of the system not only operate at their best ( 15 SEER ) effiency, but also safely. Your system documents should give you the minimum required airflow for that system. Pressure readings should be taken to see what they are including the return air with the clean filter in place. Keep in mind, that as the filter gets dirty, the airflow will be reduced accordingly. Newly available high effiency filters must be sized properly, because they have a very large pressure drop even when clean. If the measurements show that the minumum required airflow cannot be attained, modifications to the duct system and/or return air filter system will be required. Please keep us posted, and feel free to contact us if you&#8217;d like us to review your service company&#8217;s results.</p>
<p>  Ed</p>
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		<title>By: Patty P</title>
		<link>http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16&#038;cpage=1#comment-460</link>
		<dc:creator>Patty P</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Apr 2010 05:56:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16#comment-460</guid>
		<description>How do I, as a consumer, know if the duct size and return air are adequate for the new 3.5 ton system 15 SEER I am having installed?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>How do I, as a consumer, know if the duct size and return air are adequate for the new 3.5 ton system 15 SEER I am having installed?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Glenn Roberts</title>
		<link>http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16&#038;cpage=1#comment-427</link>
		<dc:creator>Glenn Roberts</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 13:44:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16#comment-427</guid>
		<description>Mr. Trout,
 
I have recently had an Electric Heater problem with a job that I had installed a year ago, and once I did the final check, test &amp; start-up on the equipment and turned the equipment over to the building owner, that was the last I heard form them.  I offered a maintenance agreement, but I was told the Tenant had their own HVAC company to do that...You&#039;ve heard this story before!
 
I return to the building and find that the filters installed were the High Pleat type and only changed once in the 11 months since start-up, needless to say all three of the Heat-Pumps and Electric Heaters were down. Two of the heaters had to be replaced and in them I found your &quot;User Caution&quot; sticker.  I read your Air flow bulletins, and was wondering if using the Heat Rise method over the electric heaters wouldn&#039;t be an easier and more convenient way to check for sufficient air flow.  While i carry a manometer in my service truck not all techs do.  Would this method work for checking air flow across your heaters and if so what would be the Minimum ands Maximum temperature rise for the specific heaters?
 
Just my thoughts.
 
Glenn Roberts / Owner
Lawrence Service Group, Inc.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Mr. Trout,</p>
<p>I have recently had an Electric Heater problem with a job that I had installed a year ago, and once I did the final check, test &amp; start-up on the equipment and turned the equipment over to the building owner, that was the last I heard form them.  I offered a maintenance agreement, but I was told the Tenant had their own HVAC company to do that&#8230;You&#8217;ve heard this story before!</p>
<p>I return to the building and find that the filters installed were the High Pleat type and only changed once in the 11 months since start-up, needless to say all three of the Heat-Pumps and Electric Heaters were down. Two of the heaters had to be replaced and in them I found your &#8220;User Caution&#8221; sticker.  I read your Air flow bulletins, and was wondering if using the Heat Rise method over the electric heaters wouldn&#8217;t be an easier and more convenient way to check for sufficient air flow.  While i carry a manometer in my service truck not all techs do.  Would this method work for checking air flow across your heaters and if so what would be the Minimum ands Maximum temperature rise for the specific heaters?</p>
<p>Just my thoughts.</p>
<p>Glenn Roberts / Owner<br />
Lawrence Service Group, Inc.</p>
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		<title>By: Travis Cannon</title>
		<link>http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16&#038;cpage=1#comment-359</link>
		<dc:creator>Travis Cannon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 24 Jan 2010 06:07:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16#comment-359</guid>
		<description>Interesting read! I&#039;ve been looking for a way to save money on my energy costs since money is lower these days. I found your post extremely helpful. Thank you</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Interesting read! I&#8217;ve been looking for a way to save money on my energy costs since money is lower these days. I found your post extremely helpful. Thank you</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Ed Trout</title>
		<link>http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16&#038;cpage=1#comment-310</link>
		<dc:creator>Ed Trout</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Dec 2009 15:10:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16#comment-310</guid>
		<description>Ben,

     Your airflow with a clean filter should be at least 65 cubic feet per minute (CFM) per KW of electric heat, and 375 cfm per Ton of cooling. Airflow should be meassured accurately with the proper instruments and procedure. Unfortunately, many service technicians do not have the proper training or instruments, and often use unreliable methods and misleading data from the equipment manufacturers. Suggest you ask for a written procedure before having this done. We can look at it and offer suggestions, etc. If your compressor is noisy in the heat pump heating mode, or your electric heater is cycling on &amp; off frequently, you probably have insufficient airflow.
Freezing of the indoor coil during the cooling mode is another indicator of low airflow.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ben,</p>
<p>     Your airflow with a clean filter should be at least 65 cubic feet per minute (CFM) per KW of electric heat, and 375 cfm per Ton of cooling. Airflow should be meassured accurately with the proper instruments and procedure. Unfortunately, many service technicians do not have the proper training or instruments, and often use unreliable methods and misleading data from the equipment manufacturers. Suggest you ask for a written procedure before having this done. We can look at it and offer suggestions, etc. If your compressor is noisy in the heat pump heating mode, or your electric heater is cycling on &amp; off frequently, you probably have insufficient airflow.<br />
Freezing of the indoor coil during the cooling mode is another indicator of low airflow.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Ben</title>
		<link>http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16&#038;cpage=1#comment-281</link>
		<dc:creator>Ben</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Dec 2009 21:04:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16#comment-281</guid>
		<description>I am a homeowner in Port Orange, FL.  I just moved in and found the sticker to this site on my air conditioner.  How do I know if my system is right?  It&#039;s seems to work ok.  Should I call my warranty company to have it checked?  any advice is appreciated.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am a homeowner in Port Orange, FL.  I just moved in and found the sticker to this site on my air conditioner.  How do I know if my system is right?  It&#8217;s seems to work ok.  Should I call my warranty company to have it checked?  any advice is appreciated.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Kevin Goodnight</title>
		<link>http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16&#038;cpage=1#comment-83</link>
		<dc:creator>Kevin Goodnight</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Aug 2009 19:13:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16#comment-83</guid>
		<description>I was wondering if Bill&#039;s statement &quot;The 4″ pleat is only .01″ or .02″ away from no filter at all.&quot;  was a typo re: the measurments?  The Aprilaire 4400 has an initial static of .16 / .37 at rated cfm respectively 1200 / 2000.  I recently measured a 2&quot; MERV 8 pleated filter at .12 wg @ 1200 cfm.  We also completed an independent lab study proving the AspenAir filter saves h/o&#039;s up to 30% of their hvac utility bill.  Thank you all for your dedication in improving airflow! Throw the 1&quot; filters away!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was wondering if Bill&#8217;s statement &#8220;The 4″ pleat is only .01″ or .02″ away from no filter at all.&#8221;  was a typo re: the measurments?  The Aprilaire 4400 has an initial static of .16 / .37 at rated cfm respectively 1200 / 2000.  I recently measured a 2&#8243; MERV 8 pleated filter at .12 wg @ 1200 cfm.  We also completed an independent lab study proving the AspenAir filter saves h/o&#8217;s up to 30% of their hvac utility bill.  Thank you all for your dedication in improving airflow! Throw the 1&#8243; filters away!</p>
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		<title>By: Big Rick</title>
		<link>http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16&#038;cpage=1#comment-66</link>
		<dc:creator>Big Rick</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 24 Jul 2009 17:09:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16#comment-66</guid>
		<description>Ed thanks, Here is the update. My HVAC service company put a scope up the return to see if there are any restrictions, none.  But the coil is tilted in a 4 ton unit and only providing 1100cfm of air flow. Could this restriction cause a failure of the compressor, I just had it changed out. The unit has been freezing up solid.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ed thanks, Here is the update. My HVAC service company put a scope up the return to see if there are any restrictions, none.  But the coil is tilted in a 4 ton unit and only providing 1100cfm of air flow. Could this restriction cause a failure of the compressor, I just had it changed out. The unit has been freezing up solid.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Ed</title>
		<link>http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16&#038;cpage=1#comment-65</link>
		<dc:creator>Ed</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 24 Jul 2009 15:38:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16#comment-65</guid>
		<description>Rick,

     In general, 4 &amp; 5 inch thick filters will have lower clean filter pressure drops than the 1 inch type. However, you should still evaluate what minimum flow is required of the system you are referring to for proper operation of the electric heater and/or compressor, and what the degradation of the airflow is with the &quot;clean&quot; filter in place, keeping in mind that the flow will degrade further as the filter loads. Systems should never be allowed to operate below the minimum required airflow.
   Ed</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Rick,</p>
<p>     In general, 4 &amp; 5 inch thick filters will have lower clean filter pressure drops than the 1 inch type. However, you should still evaluate what minimum flow is required of the system you are referring to for proper operation of the electric heater and/or compressor, and what the degradation of the airflow is with the &#8220;clean&#8221; filter in place, keeping in mind that the flow will degrade further as the filter loads. Systems should never be allowed to operate below the minimum required airflow.<br />
   Ed</p>
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		<title>By: Big Rick</title>
		<link>http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16&#038;cpage=1#comment-64</link>
		<dc:creator>Big Rick</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Jul 2009 22:09:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.lowairflow.com/?p=16#comment-64</guid>
		<description>I have a low flow problem, and would like to ask about some filter options based on the above discussions. I have a 24x24 return that will only fit a 1&quot; filter. However the duct behind the filter is 23x 23 or so and 18&quot; deep. Would I be better off getting a sheet metal insert made that would drop into the duct that would handle a 22x22x4 filter? Assuming the same filter material what pressure reduction could I see?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a low flow problem, and would like to ask about some filter options based on the above discussions. I have a 24&#215;24 return that will only fit a 1&#8243; filter. However the duct behind the filter is 23x 23 or so and 18&#8243; deep. Would I be better off getting a sheet metal insert made that would drop into the duct that would handle a 22&#215;22x4 filter? Assuming the same filter material what pressure reduction could I see?</p>
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